Maintenance points of solenoid valve failure

(1) The solenoid valve terminal is loose or the thread is off, the solenoid valve must not be energized, and the thread can be tightened.

(2) The solenoid valve coil is burnt out. You can remove the solenoid valve wiring and measure with a multimeter. If it is open, the solenoid valve coil will burn out. The reason is that the coil is damp, causing insulation failure

If the magnetic leakage is good, the current in the coil is too large and burned. Therefore, it is necessary to prevent rainwater from entering the solenoid valve. In addition, the spring is too hard, the reaction force is too large, and the number of coil turns is too small.

Insufficient suction can also burn out the coil. For emergency treatment, you can turn the manual button on the coil from the "0" position to the "1" position during normal operation to open the valve. (Electric Actuator)  

(3) The solenoid valve is stuck. The matching clearance between the spool sleeve of the solenoid valve and the valve core is very small (less than 0.008mm), and it is generally a single-piece assembly. When mechanical impurities are brought in or there is too little lubricating oil, it is easy to get stuck. The treatment method can be made by inserting a steel wire through a small hole in the head to make it rebound. The fundamental solution is to remove the solenoid valve, take out the valve core and valve core sleeve, and clean it with CCI4 to make the valve core move flexibly in the valve sleeve. When disassembling, pay attention to the assembly sequence of the components and the position of the external wiring, so that the reassembly and wiring are correct, and check whether the oil spray hole of the lubricator is blocked and whether the lubricant is sufficient.

(4) Leakage. Air leakage will cause insufficient air pressure, making it difficult to open and close the forced valve. The reason is that the sealing gasket is damaged or the slide valve is worn, which causes blow-by in several cavities.

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